Bericht: 27/10/15
Ich arbeit auf die Tischbeine gemusste. Fleck und Klarlack. Ich arbeite auch mehr in der Steuer Schublade, mit auf der Lichtsignalsteurung. Es steuert nur die Vorsicht-Aspekte für 40km/h Geschwindigkeitsbeschränkung für alle sechs Signale. Ich auch hinzugefügte Lenkrolle Räder auf die Tabelle für den einfachen transport.
Und etwa Gebäude kaufte ich. Zusammen mit eigenen Lichtern.
Heir ist ein Probe auf spur verwittert.
Das ist die Steuer Schublade. Es hat über alle notwendigen die Steuerungsfunktionen. Die main Digitrax Regler, und ein Mobilsteuerung. Auch die Schaltersteurer.
Auch, wie ist mein Deutsch? Ich bin benutze nur Google für individual Worten, und nicht die Sätze. Nur was ich weiße mit über Grammer
Hier ist die Gleissbett. Es ist 3.1mm Sperrholz, und es erlaubt schöne Steigungen. Ich prufe die Steigungen mit etwa waggons für Fehler.
Hier ist etwa auf mein eisenbahn tisch arbeiten. Ich habe fertiggestellt meisten die Bankarbeit. Alles Sie brauchen ist die final Klarlack. Und ich habe ein Kabel halter? Wenn das du heisst es?
I wanted to inform you guys of a discovery I found. This pertains to the new Fleischmann Ae 6/6. If you have been experiencing problems, or want to prevent them, listen up. My locomotive kept stalling and the decoder was making a chirping sound, as if it was a short circuit. I completely disassembled the locomotive and cleaned every contact and part. Still no avail.
But, when I ran it without the shell on, I noticed a flash from under the printed circuit board. So under more scrutiny, I watched closely where it came from. I noticed that the pins that originate from the decoder socket, are very low, nearly touching the motor where the brushes are. The solder joints are too long. So when I ran it again, it was like a little lightning storm coming off the 6 pins onto the motor. I guess the current from that event isn't high enough to short circuit, but enough to cause interference and the chirping sound.
I trimmed all the pins as far as I could, reassembled it, and tested it again. Ran like a beauty, even at a slow crawl. Maybe this isn't on every locomotive, but I'm going to inform Fleischmann about it.
I will attach images later today...
Here are the signals. They are just powered by 9V batteries here, but will be using Viessmanns signalling system to operate. There are two single signals on the other side of the layout protecting the other crossover. The blocks are small, and it will add more realism to operating sessions. On a separate note, I have just started learning German in order to finish my architecture degree in Germany. So maybe once I learn more vocabulary, I can start writing in it on here. Viele danke, und ich freue mich auf Ihr Rat!
Here is the progress of the bench work. I used western read cedar for the underside frame, and the fascia because it is very light. Then a 1/2" piece of plywood as the base to stiffen the overall piece. It has two drawers that come out from the face. One will have all the control equipment, and the other will be used for train storage. It will all be stained and clear coated when done, as I wanted it to be furniture grade. There will be castors underneath so it can roll under things for storage. The legs will be a simple two H-frame pieces that have cross braces on both sides. Then, there will be magnets on the tops of the legs, so it can attach to the underside of the table, and stay in place if it is moved. The legs will be made to unbolt apart, and each piece will have a few magnets that will enable them to attach to the underside of the table.
Here is an update on the layout. I have finished adding feeders to every track segment, and have put the track on a piece of 1/8" plywood that I will be using for the roadbed. Each piece of track has a number corresponding to its placement on the layout, with two holes drilled for the feeder wires. The plywood will be cut with about a 1/2" margin from the edge of the track, and be used to support signals, catenary poles, and lights. It also enables me to do super elevated curves using styrene strips. The roadbed will be mounted on wood blocks on the base, using a special design I've come up with to see if I can reduce noise. I've just been testing all electrical and track connections to make sure everything runs flawlessly. A problem I started having was with the cross-overs. One of the engines kept shorting on the frog when it went over it. I used the slo-mo camera feature on my iPhone and was able to see the wheels barely striking the exit rail, obviously being the opposite polarity. So I dremeled out a little bit of the rail and it works great now. Here you can see the soldered joints on the rails. Kato conveiniently put perforations along the underside of the rail that I could cut out. It also acted like a mold for when the solder was applied. The track plan is pretty basic, as the inner architect in me was trying to optimize length of double track, and activity. There is a spuron the outside that splits into two for the engine shed. A yard with four tracks serving a freight depot and possibly a petrol tank. Then an interior spur that serves a station along with the inside mainline track. And you can ignore my long temporary programming track.
Haha, my apologies. Thought they would be smaller.
I've been designing a small 122cm x 122cm n scale layout to run my trains on. I got tired of running them on the carpet around an oval 
. So, I wanted this layout to be small enough so I could easily take it with me wherever I move. It will be furniture grade, so it will have a drawer to store trains, a drawer for controls, wood stained fascia, etc. Also, I'm working on a folding leg system, so I can roll it around, and set it up as a table wherever I please.
Being in architecture school, I decided to use a non typical program to design a train layout. I decided to use Rhinoceros, a 3D modeling program. I chose to use Kato Unitrack as it is modular, and drew up all the radiuses, straights, and turnouts. Then, assembled a track plan. Using forced perspective and larger landforms, I was able to separate the layout more, and create multiple viewing scenes. I can attach photos of the model and you will be able to see basic building forms, the landscape, and the benchwork.
Now, I do have a few questions.
-Given the track plan, I was wondering how many circuit breakers to install on the layout to protect other elements. Also keep in mind, I plan to have simple signalling with track occupation with Viessmann and MicroScale systems. I also want to ensure the longevity of the layout and its electrical reliability, so I'm soldering feeders onto every track piece. (I know, its overkill =) )
-In the controller drawer, there will be a Digitrax Zephyr with a programming track mounted on the surface. There will also be a switch control panel. I want to use LED indication, but I know I can't use DPDT switches otherwise it will burn out the Kato switch motors. And I'd rather not use a momentary switch connected to the DPDT's to prevent the indication being opposite.
-I will also attach a wiring diagram for the signalling system that I believe should work. It is pretty busy, but only one of the modules is wired. Now, it isn't necessarily prototypical blocking, so it has intermediate "buffer" sections after each block. I didn't want a train coming up to a signal and it still being red because its tail end is still in the previous block. I also felt that I could use a manual signal controller to control only the yellow aspects, and have it override the red or green aspects. Please let me know what you think.
Now, feel free to give me any critique, as I'm only starting the framing and base. Don't hold back at all, I'm from architecture school, and I'm used to receiving harsh criticism. (And I've seen some on here 
) I will be putting the highest amount of detail I can into this little layout, as it is my first, and have been doing extensive research. So please, enjoy!
Admin by Dieter: übergrosse Bilddatei als PDF umgewandelt
Hersteller: Minitrix
Artikelnummer: 12195
Beschreibung: Muss ich die Platine unter der Teilenummer #140139
Ja, ich bin mir nicht sicher, wo das Quietschen kam. Es begann langsam und shuddery und dann nach 10 Minuten, es ist wirklich auf und erstickten machte das Quietschen. Dann hörte es sich zu bewegen, mit Ausnahme von den Scheinwerfern Einschalten in eine Richtung. Ich werde versuchen, das Entfernen der Kondensatoren ein zu einer Zeit zu sehen, was das bedeutet .
In Bezug auf die Foren, ich habe es auf ein paar Läden hier in Florida genommen und sie nicht einmal wissen, was damit zu tun. Selbst die Europäische Verteiler in Miami war ein wenig skeptisch. Also dachte ich, ich würde direkt an die Schweizer Modellierer zu gehen.
Gut ist es immer noch einen analogen Anschluss habe ich noch nicht umgestellt auf digital noch nicht. Sollte ich immer noch die Kondensatoren und ersetzen Sie mit Draht, oder holen Sie sich einen neuen Motor?
Verzeih mir, chrom übersetzt die Seite für mich, aber ich sollte sein Beitrag in der Deutschen 
On the Re482 I jumped over the multi-fuse with some wire, and soldered it into place. But, when I ran it on the track, the motor was squealing with pain, and smoke was just coming out of it. Not it ceases to work, and only one end's headlights operate.
The Re460 still runs at half speed with full throttle, and still has headlight issues.
Meanwhile my dad is smirking with pride over his Atlas built locomotive :thumbdown
Okay, did you mean a 3X3? There is also a C1, C2, and C3. Any particular wire, and say if there was a short with no fuse to burn out. Will it damage the locomotive? Thanks
The first is a Minitrix 12195 SBB Cargo Re482. All of the sudden the motor stopped functioning, but the headlights still work. I put power directly through the motor and it would still function, so it has to be something on the circuit board. I thought it was the default chip in place of the DCC decoder was the problem, but I tried the one in my Re460 as they were similar, and still wouldn't run. So it must be another component. Any ideas or alternative solutions? The part wasn't even available on the Marklin website for Trix products.
The second is a Minitrix 12674 SBB Re460 "HCB". Recently when running in one direction, the front headlights operate normally, but the rear ones end up being dimly lit. While running in the other direction it operates normally. So I opened it up to see if I could find anything. There are two inductors, or coils of copper wire, and one has a plastic heat shrink tube around it. I noticed the one with the tube was melted and was pretty warm. Some of the coils weren't completely on, and the plastic melted all around it. I've removed it and replaced it with a spare I found, but the loco runs half speed at full throttle, and in one direction both ends have their headlights lit.
Hopefully I can finish soon to be able to do this!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?f…er_embedded&v=daAeQyQZfQA
Please let me know what you think. Thanks!
