Minitrix Locomotive Problems

    The first is a Minitrix 12195 SBB Cargo Re482. All of the sudden the motor stopped functioning, but the headlights still work. I put power directly through the motor and it would still function, so it has to be something on the circuit board. I thought it was the default chip in place of the DCC decoder was the problem, but I tried the one in my Re460 as they were similar, and still wouldn't run. So it must be another component. Any ideas or alternative solutions? The part wasn't even available on the Marklin website for Trix products.


    The second is a Minitrix 12674 SBB Re460 "HCB". Recently when running in one direction, the front headlights operate normally, but the rear ones end up being dimly lit. While running in the other direction it operates normally. So I opened it up to see if I could find anything. There are two inductors, or coils of copper wire, and one has a plastic heat shrink tube around it. I noticed the one with the tube was melted and was pretty warm. Some of the coils weren't completely on, and the plastic melted all around it. I've removed it and replaced it with a spare I found, but the loco runs half speed at full throttle, and in one direction both ends have their headlights lit.


    Hopefully I can finish soon to be able to do this!


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?f…er_embedded&v=daAeQyQZfQA


    Please let me know what you think. Thanks!

    Problem No. 1
    Get rid of the green component marked with "IXI". It's a self resetting fuse, which is known for generating lots of Problems. Instead of, replace with a Piece of wire.


    Problem No.2: No idea


    Felix

    Alles sollte so einfach wie möglich sein - aber nicht einfacher.

    Einmal editiert, zuletzt von fgee ()

    In analog mode, only the multi fuse "3X3" does bad. Get rid of it.
    If in digital use, get rid of all the condensators. Due to the HF signal they give a short between motor and rails, which is wrong. The problem is frequently reported in the parallel universe http://www.1zu160.net .


    I cannot understand why mfgs build up such nonses on a circuit board :-/


    Good luck,
    Felix

    On the Re482 I jumped over the multi-fuse with some wire, and soldered it into place. But, when I ran it on the track, the motor was squealing with pain, and smoke was just coming out of it. Not it ceases to work, and only one end's headlights operate.


    The Re460 still runs at half speed with full throttle, and still has headlight issues.


    Meanwhile my dad is smirking with pride over his Atlas built locomotive :thumbdown

    Zitat

    Original von mitchellschuess
    On the Re482 ... when I ran it on the track, the motor was squealing with pain,


    Sounds like a analog loco Standing on a digital track. Thus, there is a Connection between the Motor and the rails. I guess it's the capacitors on the pcb, making a short due to the HF Signal on thze track. Get rid of the capacitors.


    Zitat

    The Re460 still runs at half speed with full throttle


    It may be that the loco just is somewhat slow at 14V dcc track voltage? Poor speed - this is also a known issue oif some minitrix locos. Although the Re 460 is not known for this issue.


    Felix

    Gut ist es immer noch einen analogen Anschluss habe ich noch nicht umgestellt auf digital noch nicht. Sollte ich immer noch die Kondensatoren und ersetzen Sie mit Draht, oder holen Sie sich einen neuen Motor?


    Verzeih mir, chrom übersetzt die Seite für mich, aber ich sollte sein Beitrag in der Deutschen :D

    The capacitors are for EMV reasons (altough EMV is a german abbreviation). Did you notice that in "ancient times" a loco had only one capacitor parallel to the motor? Nowadays there are three or so of them. If the loco works, ok. If it doesn't work, ged rid of the capacitors. Pc boards with DCC plug sometimes have too much capacitors.


    However. You say, you'driving your model rr the analog way? What could the squeeking noise then be? It describes the sound of an analog loco staying on a digital track. Thus my idea of the badly built pcb.


    To be honest, I'm a good mechanic, but my technical english gets to the limit. Maybe you'll try it on an english spoken board? Inside, locos mostly have similar technic, so it's not related particularly to swiss locos.


    Felix

    Alles sollte so einfach wie möglich sein - aber nicht einfacher.

    Einmal editiert, zuletzt von fgee ()

    Ja, ich bin mir nicht sicher, wo das Quietschen kam. Es begann langsam und shuddery und dann nach 10 Minuten, es ist wirklich auf und erstickten machte das Quietschen. Dann hörte es sich zu bewegen, mit Ausnahme von den Scheinwerfern Einschalten in eine Richtung. Ich werde versuchen, das Entfernen der Kondensatoren ein zu einer Zeit zu sehen, was das bedeutet .


    In Bezug auf die Foren, ich habe es auf ein paar Läden hier in Florida genommen und sie nicht einmal wissen, was damit zu tun. Selbst die Europäische Verteiler in Miami war ein wenig skeptisch. Also dachte ich, ich würde direkt an die Schweizer Modellierer zu gehen.

    Hello there from New Zealand,


    I just wanted to say thanks to the posting and suggestions made on this thread, in particular that regarding shorting out the "self resetting fuse".


    I've had a blue 210 loco (model 12110) that around 5 years ago started to run intermittently and two weeks ago after being run for the first time in four years on the large club layout it worked well for about 10 minutes then just stopped but the lights continued to sort of function.


    On arriving back home I lifted the hood (removed the body shell) and had a good poke around. The motor still worked when the circuit board was removed and the contacts and light boards were good so it had to be the board. I had a bit of a roam around the internet identifying there were no spare parts available but couldn't find anything useful to help so with an electronics (aviation) background determined it was time to make a new circuit board.


    Having one more look yesterday morning this thread popped up and on replacing the "self resetting fuse" with a wire link I was pleased to see the loco now works as it should - so again, thanks for posting the thread in the first place and providing the useful info about replacing that fuse.


    (By the by, the four year hiatus was due to moving cities and islands, retiring, working through the pandemic stuff plus a moderate health "thing" and also providing support to two of our sons, their partners and between them, their three delightful granddaughters here in Christchurch).


    Take Care and Regards

    Brent

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